A master class delves into a unique version of the sumptuous
rice dish from the land of the Nizams
Delhi shares a special relationship with biryani. Generally,
the sumptuous rice dish is made either in the Lucknowi style in posh eateries
or in the Moradabadi version in street stalls of the Capital. Foodies have to
content themselves with either chicken biryani or goat meat biryani. Lamb
biryani gives gourmets a chance to break the monotony.
Nizami flavour
Savouring this highly seasoned rice and meat dish can be a
heavenly experience at the Varq restaurant in Hotel Taj Mahal, where a
Hyderabadi version is being served. What makes biryani special is the elaborate
prep work involving a mind-boggling number of spices to create its unique
flavour.
Rajesh Singh, Chef de cuisine at Varq and a Hyderabadi,
conducted a master class on biryani for a selection of guests recently.
He proudly proclaimed that hailing from the city of Nizams helps
him to weave magic in his biryani. “This biryani is a special one and is
diametrically opposite to the Awadhi style. And the biggest advantage is that
it is wholesome and healthy,” he says.
During the workshop, Chef Rajesh shared some of his recipes,
and spoke eloquently about eating a diverse range of biryanis in his hometown.
Pressure cooking
Almost like a ritual, he wanted us to try prawn snacks,
where the crustacean was aesthetically placed on miniature patties. Perhaps it
was meant to increase our appetite and absorb all that he taught. Just as I was
enjoying the lingering taste of the snack, the chef announced that he had
brought a succulent baby lamb, which was placed on a huge cauldron.
Explaining the idea behind the entire exercise, Chef Rajesh
says: “It is to tell people how this variant of biryani is cooked under
pressure (also known as ‘dum-pukht’), which is a slower method of cooking.”
Two versions of biryani exist. The Pakke Gosht ki Biryani
(Lucknowi style) requires a base of mutton curry in which the rice is cooked.
Hyderabad’s Kachche Gosht ki Biryani uses marinated lamb that is cooked under
pressure in its own juices with par-boiled rice, making for a lighter version
of the dish.
Explaining further, the chef says that the first stage
entails cutting the lamb and then marinating it first with a dry rub of chilli,
garlic, salt. “Refrigerate the meat for a day. In the second marinade, coat the
lamb with a paste of mint and pineapple juice and leave it for an hour. We use
baby lamb as it is extra soft.”
Pineapple juice is a natural tenderiser. It can be
substituted with skin of raw papaya if one is allergic to pineapple, says the
chef.
At the end of the master class, the biryani was served to
the invitees. Its wonderful aroma was complemented by the soft meat and the
right kick of spice in the rice. The best part about Kachche Gosht ki Biryani
is that chillies, ginger, garlic and curd can be altered according to taste.
Kachche Gosht Ki Biryani
Ingredients
Lamb 1 kg
Chilli powder 50 grams
Ginger garlic paste 100 grams
Second marination
Pineapple half
Cinnamon powder 40 grams
Green chilli silt 35 grams
Mint leaves 2
Ghee 500
Cardamom powder 50 grams
Clove powder 50 grams
Yoghurt 1 kg
Brown onion 1 kg
Rice 500 grams
Water 1 ltrs
Cinnamon 1 stick
Bay leaf 1
Green cardamom 5
Cloves 5
Lastly, garnish the biryani with saffron water, chopped mint
and brown onions.
